When researching wine pairing suggestions for veal I decided on a Chianti to keep with the Italian meal theme. I chose a Nozzole Chianti Classico Reserva 2011 largely based on a sign in the Liquor Control Board of Ontario (LCBO) outlet proclaiming it to be the ‘benchmark of chianti’. High praise indeed.
Then I was curious to find a Sicilian wine thinking that it might compliment the veal dish’s Marsala notes in style and terroir. I found Pupillo Cyane Moscato 2010 with an intriguing write up. Antonio Galloni of vinousmedia.com described it as ‘distinct quality of grape but in a dry appealing way. White flowers, orange blossoms and pears, expressive textured finish’ awarding it a score of 90 when reviewed in Feb 2013.
In searching for the Sicilian wine I came across Vigne di Catullo from the Lombardy region of Italy. It originally caught my eye due to the rating of 94 by Kerin O’Keefe of the Wine Enthusiast I was intrigued by the promise on the label of ‘a rich flavour, with accents of hazelnut and ripe fruit and a focused, silky finish.’
Tasting notes are ordered in order of preference.
Vigne di Catullo Lugana Riserva 2012
$23.95 released in LCBOs (437004) March 19, 2016
This wine did not disappoint. The nose was slightly floral which evolved to notes of lychee as it opened up. It was lively, clean and crisp on the palate. There were very subtle mineral and herbal tones. It paired beautifully with both the fruit in the Melon and Crispy Prosciutto Salad and the savoury veal course. I will be stocking up on this one!
Pupillo Cyane Moscato 2010
$18.95 released in LCBOs (156430) January 19, 2016
There was no description on the bottle so I picked this up on the strength of its Sicilian provenance and the fact that it is a dry Moscato. Moscato tends to be known as a sweeter wine but this is the second dry Moscato I have come across in the past month. It is a deep gold colour with deliciously petrol and diesel on the nose. The wine itself is clean, somewhat round on the tongue. There were hints of stone fruits and kaffir lime. Unfortunately I found the finish to be disappointingly on the short side.
Nozzole Chianti Classico Reserva 2011
$19.95 released in LCBOs (324160) March 19, 2016.
I found it to have leather, flint and a hint of spicy caramel on the nose. Tar and high tannins on the tongue. This was a BIG wine. It completely overwhelmed and clashed with the savoury notes in the veal dish. (My bad). This is not a reflection on the wine, rather the pairing. It needs stronger flavours to balance the force of this wine…perhaps steak with mushroom and/or blue cheese trimmings. I would agree with wine critic Michael Godel’s comment that it is ‘A dry, dusty and somewhat rustic Chianti, well-priced and a step beyond basic.’